I have now purchased the 2003 roof rack and warn lights for my FFRR (Thanks Paul :) ).  The roof rack is great the lights look fantastic, however the light dont work.  I know roughly where the cabling needs to go but I would be grateull if some one could provide me with photos or diagrams to provide further direction!!! :)

Cheers

Jules

Rgds

Jules

PS as for the control box  - nope! but I'm working on that ( :ermm: may even have a look next to the battery!!) :)

If you have bought the warn lights new I think that the loom that comes in the kits will be of no use. For my 110 I had to remake the loom to get the lights working. This is also what LR had to do.

If there are no remnants of the original wiring you would be as well to follow the warn loom and extend it.

The wires should come down the edges of the sreen pillars. There will probably be evidence of where they entered the engine bay.

Miles of spaghetti. At least you have no snorkle to contend with.

Adrian

Rgds

Jules

Any FFRR pics would be good!!! :)

This is the only photo of the control box I have at the moment and it is from a Disco II. I would suspect that your Range would've been equipped with the same. The only difference is that the Disco's were equipped with 3 sets of lights and the Range's were equipped with 2. The Disco's had a separate control to turn the lights on for the rack mounted lights and the winch mounted lights. These controllers are the OEM controllers that came with the Warn lights.

The control box should have an 8 gauge wire running from the battery directly to it. Let me know if you have found the control box.

Dan 

Rgds

Jules

Pictures still needed if poss - FFRR

:)

Cheers

Jules

I've been thinking about rewiring my lights... mine are as Land Rover did them and have never been removed or disconnected. The problem is that the wires do not all fit beneath the trim at the side of the windscreen - the trim bulges and you can see the yellow wiring beneath.

Because there is never any need to operate each set of lights independently the only wiring I think is needed is an earth and a live. I'll then put a junction on the roof rack to distribute to the four units up there. This has the added bonus that I'll then be able to consolodate on the three sets of relays under the hood.

A voltage drop of 0.5V is acceptable (in my book) and I'll research the guage of wire necessary to meet the current requirements.

One thing about my lights is that the wiring loom does not support the dual beam function. The lights have it, but there is nothing in the loom that Land Rover put in.

I may look to acquiring a control box to see if this can give me that functionality - the switch has had the mode button rather crudely disabled by desoldering the micro switch beneath so I'll need to replace or repair this too. I have no idea why this has been done but assume that in doing so there is no way of accidentally swithing mode and thus turning the lights off.

If anyone knows if the control boxes are available or whether they have a part number from either Warn or Land Rover I'd be grateful for a note.

that would work - 99% of this sort of job is routing the cabling - if you can find a convenient route and gain the same functionality then I think it is a good idea.

I don't know what power rating the lights are but I'm guessing at 60W a piece. 240W in total and that over 12V gives just 20amps. So your 100A supply would be more than adequate.

I found this site for calculating the wire guage: http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm but it is american and all measurements are in horse strides, half straw bale weight, and coconut shells or what ever it is they use.

I think I concluded that 4AWG (5mm diameter core) cabling would suffice based on 24ft of cable (crudely calculated on 6ft across the engine bay and 6ft up to the rack and then all the way back to the battery). This gives around 0.3V drop across the circuit based on a 12V supply.

Because I have made many assumptions I would strongly recommend checking with someone who can instinctively say what guage to use!

Something I have just realised is that in wiring all lamps through one relay / circuit you have no built in redundancy - if one faulty fuse, relay or cable will put all your aux lights out.

Looking in the loom to get the dual beam function, you need to check that the tiny Blue wire from the power/mode switch is connected to the main lighting loom otherwise the dual beam does not function. By fitting a power/mode switch in lieu of the power switch later vehicles can be provided with the 2 lighting modes. The lights should all be fitted up to work with both modes.

Lights can be made to come on with either sidelights, dip or main beam by selecting which is the feed source. So if as in Mark's case the lights only come on with main beam remove the feed from main and attach to dip etc.

Adrian

The 3 wires from the light are - black, white and blue. Blue is power for dip, white for main and black is common.

Andy (macg4) got his dual beams working when the wires were reconnected. Blue at the tiny plug was not connected to any wire in the main loom to the relays.

Adrian

my D3 has 3 wires from the lights but only 2 in the loom so there is no way to get both functions on my vehicle. It sounds like mine is the same as Craig's D3.

I might be interested in getting both functions to work but I'm not sure what the purpose of the dipped beam is. Can you use this during normal road driving? If not there can't be much use for  it as far as I can see.

J

Use of the roof rack mounted lights is illegal on the highway as they above are 1.5m high as Mark found whilst out chasing pigs, pandas and sheep in the lakes the other week.

Adrian

Thanks for help.

PS will take some new photos (when weather permits) and post.

Rgds

Jules

You say you got a relay box for less than £20! I sell relays @ £1.97 for NO and £2.28 for CO, it must be some sort of relay?

Cheers