G4 Owners Club

What to check when I pick up my G4D3

https://forum.g4ownersclub.com/Topic9933.aspx

By Camelroel - 17 Aug 2008

Hello as a lot off you have a G4D3 I have the question what I surely have to check when I pick up the car.

I read about the rear door struts could be loose etc. So things like that, things you have experienced that could be giving problems.

I will make a list off the things you mentioned and take that with me.

Thanks Roel

By Iona Disko - 18 Aug 2008

Hi,

I recently bought a G4D3 and the following problems were evident:

1. All over paintwork damage, mainly light scratches but every panel (event the roof) has at least one scratch down to the original (silver) paint. If your vehicle was originally a different colour you might find that the paintwork has chipped more readily than you would expect. I have been quoted £1500 to £2000 to put the car right and this is the only problem I would live with. Also worth noting that the paint may be badly faded - mine is very obvious in places. The technical explanation I have had is that the paint is baked as part of the application / drying and curing process. If it is later exposed to a higher direct sunlight temperature then it can cure a second time and change colour. This is not normally noticable but the G4 cars are covered in advertising graphics - so my car bears a faded paintwork impression where all the graphics have been removed.

2. Drive shaft gaiter split

3. Warped front discs

4. Worn front pads

5. Wear in steering rack

6. Wear in front lower ball joints

7. Wear in front suspension bushes

All of the above came to £1000 including a full service but this was done by a friend. He estimated 14 hours labour - so at a Land Rover dealer this is something like £2,000 with the parts he thought.

8. Lack of service history (mine has no service record for a 3+year period)

9. Poor quality fitting of some of the accessories - I would take a really close look at how the front bumper has been cut. When the aux lights were fitted the cabling has been poorly routed and damaged trim down the side of the windscreen. Rear ladder has signs of corrosion.

Other minor defects are:

10. Mine had a broken windscreen at some point in its life - glass inside a lot of unusual places - pollen filter, both A-pillar trim pieces were full of glass and behind the head-lining.

11. The sunroof drains were totally blocked on both sides resulting in a lot of water coming in (about an hour of work to fix and simple though)

12. Uneven wear in the tyres (although a minor problem a full set of tyres is £1000 - so worth bearing in mind)

12.5 Spare wheel was a different style alloy (7 spoke) to the rest of the car (6 spoke)

Really minor problems are:

13. lots of internal trim rattles (from being shook about a lot)

14. A lot of dust inside the car from off-road use (haven't done anything about this as it will only get worse as this is the sort of use I got it for)

15. No load space cover

16. Missing splash guards from underside / undertray

17. Winch not working (no remote supplied and damaged wiring - took ages to trouble shoot)

18. No winch rope (£200+ to replace)

19. No winch remote £30 to replace although you can pay £80 if you don't know the right people

20. Aux lights disabled - simple fuse to put right

21... still finding more scratches

The good points are:

1. Very cheap compared to another D3

2. Low mileage (11,000)

3. Looks brand new inside - no a mark anywhere on the seats, luggage area etc. I would say that the roof rack had never been used either. (oddly though with the exception of some light scuffing and gouging from dashboard - might relate to the broken windscreen I suspect)

By The OC (Augusto) - 18 Aug 2008

How about that for a comprehensive check list :w00t:, well done Julian
By Iona Disko - 18 Aug 2008

I just wrote out what the RAC gave me... I booked a comprehensive examination but I think they went to look in their list of surcharges to see if they could charge me extra for the additional paperwork when they saw how much the engineer wrote.

Despite all that - he did say that he would not hessitate to buy it himself.

By Camelroel - 18 Aug 2008

Thanks,

This is a good list. I'll take it with me when picking up the car.

Most items are reasonable easy to check except for the steering rack. How can you check that one?

Are there more?

I know about the struts off the tailgate and the steering wheel.

Thanks Roel

By CraigS-L - 19 Aug 2008

Julian, yours has certainly seen some abuse, mine is near perfect compared to that list!!

Couple of additions:

- Tyres (MT/R'S) can be found on the UK for about £110-120ea inc Vat before fitting.

- if it is coming from James French I would expect a full history, and probably a wire winch rope (plasma is the challange spec and Gert/JimCarr certainly had access to some cheaper stuff)

- as it is a Bolivia Competitor Car, it should have been orange from the start - the slam panel under the front of the bonnet should list the colour as Tangiers Orange - I think only the early 54 and 05 cars started as different colours

By Camelroel - 19 Aug 2008

It's coming from Nene Overland.

It's still on there website as being the only one left. The outside pictures are off BN55WPT. The inside not.

It is a team car as I have seen a picture with name on the car.

I'll pick it up in september and if work permits I try to be at Peterboruogh.

By CraigS-L - 19 Aug 2008

I would expect a history from Nene's as well
By mole - 19 Aug 2008

Roel,

I bought my 110 from Nene and it came with the original service book stating that it had been serviced when leaving Landrover ownership.

Nene told me they would ensure the Landrover warranty would be reinstated but when I checked with my local Landrover dealer he told me it had not been done but did it for me himself (they also told me everything else that was on the system about it).

Let's hope we can see you at Peterborough.

By 110gary - 20 Aug 2008

Best way to check for freeplay in your rack-ends is to jack the vehicle on the lowest part of the front suspension arms. Jacking on the body creates too much stress on the suspension arms and steering due to the greater angle therefore eliminating the freeplay. Get an assistant to hold either side of the wheel and move side to side, only gentle movement is needed to simulate the freeplay. Observe the track arm for movement, if movement is present then the rack-end is likely to need replacement. Also check the track rod end ball joints at the same time by placing your thumb and forefinger either side of the ball joint on the rubber gaitor to check for any movement. It is acceptable to have a small amount of freeplay in both these joints, I would only advise replacement for excessive wear.